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Design Specification for Street Lighting and Illuminated Signs - for developers, designers and contractors (PDF 120KB new window)

Description: ENVIRONMENT DIRECTORATESTREET LIGHTINGDesign Specification for Street Lighting and Illuminated SignsJuly 2010Version 1 5 July 2010INDEX Page 1. Introduction 1Part A. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.Design and Adoption General Design of Lighting Installations Procedure for Adoption of Street Lighting Statutory Undertakers and Service Utilities Inspections Traffic Signs 5 7 8 8 2Part B. 7. 8.Specification Introduction Street Lighting Specification 9Appendices 1. Schedule of Proposed Lighting Equipment (to be completed by the Developer for approval) Flintshire County Council's preferred equipment Flintshire County Council's preferred columns and mounting heights Flintshire County Council's energy and maintenance conditions Flintshire County Council's painting requirements Flintshire County Council's competence and accreditation requirements Flintshire County Council's remote monitoring, new technology and energy saving requirements Flintshire County Council's sign plates and banner requirements2. 3.4.5. 6.7.8.Version 2 07/10Lighting Design Guide and SpecificationIntroduction This Lighting Design Guide and Specification has been jointly prepared by and for use in the following Councils: o Conwy County Borough Council o Denbighshire County Council o Flintshire County Council o Gwynedd Council o Isle of Anglesey County Council o Powys County Council o Wrexham County Borough Council Minor variations or additions to this standard Specification may exist in each of the individual Councils and these will be detailed in Appendix 2. Developers should note that this Lighting Design Guide and Specification applies to highway electrical equipment on roads on residential developments, industrial estates and retail parks where the speed of vehicles is not expected to exceed 30 m.p.h. [50 k.p.h.] Whilst the specification of equipment to be used on roads for higher vehicular speeds will generally comply with this document, it is recommended that the design of street lighting on roads for higher vehicular speeds should be discussed with the County Street Lighting Engineer before detailed design commences. The materials suggested for use in the installation of street lighting on roads in this document are those which contribute to the County's preferred option for a street lighting system on roads for adoption. Developers who wish to utilise alternative designs or materials should liaise with the Street Lighting Engineer to ensure that adoption will not be prejudiced. The granting of planning permission or building regulations approval does not mean that the Highway Authority will adopt the proposed street lighting or necessarily that the highways as proposed will be suitable for adoption. It is vital that developers consult with the Highways Development Control Officer before submission for planning permission or building regulations approval to ensure that what is proposed will be acceptable for adoption. The term "developer(s)" has been used throughout this document to identify the person or organisation who should comply with this design guide and specification. Within this document "developer" also includes "designers" and "contractors".Page 1 of 23 V1. 07/10Part A11.1 1.1.1Design and AdoptionGeneralGeneral Procedures The preferred procedure for adoption will be in accordance with the provisions of Section 38 of the Highways Act, 1980 and developers are encouraged to enter into a formal agreement with the Highway Authority. Where works associated with new road construction involve work within an adopted highway which cannot be included in a Section 38 agreement, a further agreement under Section 278 of the Highways Act, 1980 should be obtained. These agreements should be arranged with the appropriate Highway Authority Officer. Where works associated with construction involve electrical work being undertaken within an area which is maintained by the Highway Authority Street Lighting Section and such work is being carried out by a Section or Department of the Council or any other authority which cannot enter into a Section 38 or 278 agreement and who are not normally involved with the maintenance of such equipment, the works shall be designed, approved and constructed in accordance with this document. Design of Lighting Installations General The design of lighting installations shall be in accordance with the latest edition of the following publications, incorporating any amendments issued: British Standard and British Standard European Specifications. Code of Practice for the Design of Road Lighting BS 5489 :2003 Road Lighting (Performance Requirements) BS EN 132012:2003 Requirements for Electrical Installations BS 7671 Supply of Materials [various British or European Standards as referred to below]1.1.21.1.32 2.1 2.1.1 The Institution of Lighting Engineers publications. Code of Practice for Electrical Safety in Highway Electrical Operations, as amended within this Specification Guidance Notes for the Reduction of Light Pollution Technical Report No. 12 Lighting for Pedestrian Crossing Technical Report No. 23 Lighting of Cycle Tracks Technical Report No. 25 Lighting for Traffic Calming Schemes The Health and Safety at Work Act, 1974.Page 2 of 23 V1. 07/10 The Electricity at Work Regulations. Construction (Design and Management) Regulations 2007 Engineering Recommendations `G39' of the Electricity Association. 2.1.2 After design and before applying for a Section 38 agreement, the proposed installation shall be submitted for approval to the Street Lighting Engineer. The submission shall comprise: A 1:2500 scale location plan of the development and its surrounding area. 2 copies of a 1:500 scale general layout plan(s) showing: The detailed layout of the development. The dimensioned widths of carriageways, footways, link paths, cycle routes and service margins. The location of street lighting columns and lighting feeder pillars, any existing lighting installations together with the positions of any existing or proposed tree planting which might affect the illumination of the road. Numbered building plots, existing streets/roads and properties, named or numbered. Any proposed traffic calming measures. 2 copies of a completed schedule of equipment as shown in Appendix 1. Copies of any lighting design calculations and where necessary, cable size design calculations. Where the design information is supplied in the form of a site drawing showing Isolux contours, any minimum point or average values shall relate to each road and not to the site as a whole. Where a private cable network is necessary and has received the prior approval of the Street Lighting Engineer, a copy of the Distribution Network Operator [DNO] drawing showing the mains cable layout. 2.1.3 When dealing with the limitation of obtrusive light from the proposed lighting installation in accordance with the Institution of Lighting Engineers guidance notes, the Street Lighting Engineer shall be consulted before any design is undertaken if there is doubt as to which Environmental Zone is applicable to the development. In exceptional circumstances, lanterns provided to illuminate the highway and which, because of limitations of space, or for aesthetic reasons, are fixed to buildings or structures, may be considered for adoption. Adoption will be subject to the securing of a suitable wayleave, the form of which is to be authorised by the Street Lighting Engineer who will also require written confirmation from the designer of the building or structure or an independent structural engineer of the suitability of the building to support the weight of the lantern and bracket. A copy of an approved Wayleave Agreement is given in Appendix 3. The luminaire maintenance factor used in the design calculations shall be taken from Table D1 in BS 5489-1:2003 and shall equate to the cleaning interval and pollution level as Page 3 of 23 V1. 07/102.1.42.1.5advised by the Council's Street Lighting Engineer. The lamp flux maintenance factor shall be obtained from the manufacturer of the lamp and shall be based on the figure quoted for lumen maintenance after 8000 burning hours. The Maintenance Factor to be used in the design calculations shall be the product of the luminaire maintenance factor and the lamp maintenance factor. 2.1.6 Electricity supplies to lighting columns shall, unless stated in Appendix 2, be provided individually from the DNO main and early contact should be made with the DNO to ascertain the locations of their mains. Where it is necessary to provide underground cables, the proposed locations of the lighting columns shall be agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer prior to any cable design being undertaken. The overall scheme shall be submitted to the Street Lighting Engineer for approval on completion of any underground cabling layout and design. In designing the street lighting installation, particular attention should be given to the requirements of Section 5 of BS 5489-1:2003 concerning the siting of columns. If new lighting is to be installed near to a railway line or in any other sensitive location, as defined in Section 12 of BS 5489-1:2003, the appropriate Authority must be consulted at an early stage about possible interference from the lighting. Copies of consultation correspondence must be provided with the submission to the Street Lighting Engineer.2.1.72.1.82.1.92.1.10 The lighting installation for car parks may be considered for adoption although, the car parks themselves, will not be considered for adoption by the Highway Authority. The lighting of such features shall be designed in accordance with Section 10.7 of BS 54891:2003 and, in general, lighting within these areas shall not involve the use of low-pressure sodium lamps. 2.1.11 Any proposed tree or shrub planting within the highway boundary shall be located no closer than 5 metres from any street light or illuminated traffic sign and no closer than 2 metres from any feeder pillar. Where the developer provides landscaping or planting on land adjacent to the highway the minimum distances stated above should be complied with in order to avoid obstruction of highway electrical equipment. 2.2 2.2.1 Lighting of Estate Roads and Retail Parks The lighting installation on estate roads in villages or other rural locations shall be designed having regard to the recommendations contained in the document "Lighting in the Countryside Towards Good Practice" which can be obtained from The Stationery Office. The lighting installation for the Urban Road Network including industrial estates and retail parks shall generally be designed to meet the requirements of Section 7 of BS 5489-1:2003 and a usual mounting height of either 8m or 10m is expected. Information on the selection of an appropriate lighting class is given in Annex B of BS 5489-1:2003 however, prior to any design being undertaken the developer should discuss the particular requirements for the site under consideration with the Street Lighting Engineer. The lighting installation for the Estate Road Network shall generally be designed to meet the requirements of Section 9 of BS 5489-1:2003 and a usual mounting height of 5m or 6m is expected. Information on the selection of an appropriate lighting class is given in Annex B of BS 5489-1:2003. If there is any doubt as to the standard to be applied having regard to the road's location and anticipated usage, this must be agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer prior to any design being undertaken.2.2.22.2.3Page 4 of 23 V1. 07/102.2.4The lighting of conflict areas ie. road junctions, roundabouts and pedestrian crossings shall be designed in accordance with Section 11 of BS 5489-1:2003. Information on the selection of an appropriate lighting class is given in Annex B of BS 5489-1:2003. The locations and types of illuminated signs, where required, shall be approved by the Traffic Engineer prior to the submission for a Section 38 agreement. The Street Lighting Engineer shall be consulted as to the type of illumination to be used on those signs which are required to be illuminated, see Clause 6.2. The positions of all columns and illuminated signs and bollards will be shown on the approved plan, however before installation the exact positions shall be agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer on site. Care shall be taken over the location of the column door to ensure that maintenance operations can be carried out safely and easily. Columns shall generally be sited at the rear of the footway so as to avoid obstruction to pedestrian movement. In all cases the minimum clearance from the edge of carriageway to the face of the column shall comply with that recommended in Section 5 of BS 54891:2003. On residential developments, columns sited in service margins or grassed areas may be erected with a clearance of 800mm. In cases of doubt, the developer should seek clarification from the Street Lighting Engineer. Lighting of Cycle Routes Cycle routes shall be lit in accordance with the Institution of Lighting Engineers Technical Report No. 23 Lighting of Cycle Tracks and shall have regard to the Environmental Zone in which the route is located. In Environmental Zones E1 and E2, or where after-dark usage is not likely to be high and a suitable alternative route is available which is lit, it is recommended that the cycle route should be unlit. It is further recommended that the lighting of any cycle route should be discussed with the Street Lighting Engineer prior to the design being undertaken. Non-Standard Installations Whilst there is some flexibility to allow choice in the type of materials to be used, the Council must impose some restriction in order that future maintenance costs, including the necessity to stock a multitude of replacement parts, are reduced to a minimum. Notwithstanding this, the Council is prepared to consider schemes which utilise nonstandard highway lighting fittings where the developer considers that on aesthetic, or other reasonable grounds, a decorative or heritage-style lantern and/or column should be used. In all such cases the developer should make early contact with the Street Lighting Engineer to discuss the proposal. The Council will require the payment by the developer of a commuted sum, which will be calculated by the Street Lighting Engineer, to cover the increased maintenance and/or energy costs of the non-standard items over a 15 year period. Procedure for Adoption of Street Lighting Prior to adoption of the highway the developer must submit the following to the Street Lighting Engineer in respect of the street lighting installation: The original completion and test certificates must be submitted as required by BS 7671.2.2.52.2.62.2.72.3 2.3.12.4 2.4.12.4.23 3.1Page 5 of 23 V1. 07/10 When several lighting units with similar particulars are offered for adoption, one test certificate, together with a schedule of test results for each lighting unit may be submitted. Test certificates which are current must be provided, i.e. the tests must have been carried out not more than 3 months before the roads are submitted for adoption and must show actual values measured during electrical tests. A specific layout plan at 1:500 scale showing the position and identifying number of each street lighting unit and the routes and depths of any underground street lighting cable network must be provided. The unit identification numbers must be crossreferenced to the test certificates. The developer will remain fully responsible for the public lighting installation, including payment of energy charges and continuing maintenance, until the date of formal adoption. 3.2 Following receipt of the documents listed in 3.1 the Street Lighting Engineer will arrange to inspect the installation to ensure that it fully complies with the Specification. Failure on the part of the developer to comply with any requirement under clause 7.1 may prejudice adoption. The developer will then be required to verify the adequacy of the works undertaken entirely at his own expense and to the satisfaction of the Street Lighting Engineer. When the Street Lighting Engineer considers that the installation fully complies with the approved drawings and this specification he shall issue a completion certificate. If the installation is covered by a Section 38 or Section 278 Agreement the completion certificate will be sent to the Council Officer responsible for the Agreement, otherwise a copy of the completion certificate will be sent to the developer. Appendix 2 indicates the stage at which the Council will adopt the highway electrical equipment and pay any charges for electricity consumed.3.33.4Page 6 of 23 V1. 07/104 4.1 4.1.1Statutory Undertakers and Service Utilities Location of Plant/Apparatus Public utility mains and services shall be laid within the highway boundary but not within the carriageway, unless there is no viable alternative. Arrangement of Mains in a 2m Wide Footway The preferred arrangement of mains in a footway is illustrated below and developers are requested to adhere to this arrangement wherever possible.4.2 4.2.1Lighting Column Lighting Column2000Dimensions in mm in mmBoundary Boundary1720 1550 1255 960 690 430Carriageway Carriageway250450Outside Stop Valve Outside Stop ValveElec lv Elec lv600600Elec lv Alt. pos'n pos'nWater900Elec hv Elec hvCableTV Cable TV280170295295Gas Gas270260Telecomms430NOT TO SCALE The recommended positions shown above result from an analysis of utility needs and the lateral clearances should be considered as a minimum. The following points should be noted: Industrial estate footway/link path widths may need to be increased to achieve the minimum lateral spacing when larger mains are used. Lighting columns are to be sited at the rear of the footway as required by BS 5489. 4.2.2 Where a service margin is to replace a footway, the layout of mains must be agreed with the Private Street Works Engineer before the completion of a Section 38 agreement.Page 7 of 23 V1. 07/103505 5.1 5.1.1Programme and Inspections Programme In addition to any requirements within the Section 38 Agreement for the submission of a programme of work for road construction the developer shall advise the Street Lighting Engineer when he intends to install any highway electrical equipment. Inspections The Street Lighting Engineer shall be advised by the developer at least 7 days in advance of his intention to install highway electrical equipment, in particular any installations below ground level, in order to allow the Street Lighting Engineer the opportunity to undertake an inspection of the installation before it is covered. The developer shall confirm that the installation will take place by giving at least 24 hours notice of the installation of any works which will not be visible above ground. Failure to comply with this Clause may result in the developer having to excavate trial holes at his expense in order to confirm that the installation fully complies with this Specification. Traffic Signs General Where works affect traffic movement on the existing highway network and where it is necessary in the interests of public safety elsewhere, then traffic safety measures for road works shall be implemented in accordance with Chapter 8 of the `Traffic Signs Manual'. Permanent Traffic Signs In all cases, the provision of appropriate traffic signs on new developments will be a requirement for adoption. Any provision must comply with the `Traffic Signs Regulations and General Directions (Statutory Instrument No. 3113, 2002)' and be to the satisfaction of the Highway Authority Traffic Engineer, who will advise whether signs need to be illuminated. Where traffic signs are required to be illuminated, details of the method of providing the electricity supply shall be submitted to the Street Lighting Engineer for approval. The developer shall consult the Street Lighting Engineer regarding the type of illumination i.e. internal or external, to be used.5.2 5.2.16 6.1 6.1.16.2 6.2.16.2.26.2.3Page 8 of 23 V1. 07/10Part B77.1 7.1.1SpecificationIntroductionThe Application of This Specification This Specification shall apply to highway electrical equipment installed on any road, link path, cycle route, or any element thereof, constructed or installed as part of a residential development, industrial estate, retail park or any area which is intended for adoption by the Council as Highway Authority. Throughout Part B of this document references to `The Street Lighting Engineer' shall include any other officer designated to act on behalf of the Street Lighting Engineer. British Standard and British Standard European Specifications7.27.2.1. The current British Standard or British European Standard Specifications shall apply in respect of all materials referred to in this Specification, including their storage and installation. Materials shall, where appropriate, be stamped with a third party verified product certification mark e.g. CE mark, together with the appropriate reference number. 7.3 7.3.1 Testing Testing of the electrical installation is deemed to be the responsibility of the developer and shall be carried out in accordance with the current, relevant, British Standard or British European Standard Specifications by a competent person. Where a British Standard or British European Standard Specification requires that materials are tested to ensure compliance with the relevant specification then an approved independent testing laboratory shall carry out such testing. The Effects of the Works on Existing Highways Wherever electrical works associated with a new road, link path or cycle route are to be carried out in an existing highway the developer shall establish, in advance of the commencement of works, the full requirements of the Highway Authority. It is advisable to undertake this exercise at least 8 weeks in advance of the intended starting date so that, if required, agreements under Section 278 of the Highways Act, 1980 can be prepared otherwise delays may be experienced. Concurrently, the Highways Department can advise on the Highway Authority's requirements in respect of the method of working, traffic control and signing. The developer's attention is drawn to the need, on his part, to ensure compliance with the requirements of the New Roads and Street Works Act, 1991. Before excavating in any existing highway, developers shall obtain any necessary licence(s) and must establish whether there is any existing statutory undertaker's plant which will be affected. Developers are advised of the need to comply with the requirements contained in the publication "Health and Safety at Work Act Avoiding Danger to Underground Services" [HS(G)47]. Any apparatus located is to be protected at the developer's expense and no pipe or cable shall be disturbed without the approval of the statutory undertaker. Traffic management, incorporating appropriate safety measures, shall be carried out in accordance with Chapter 8 of the Traffic Signs Manual.7.3.27.4 7.4.17.4.2Page 9 of 23 V1. 07/107.4.3Highways in the vicinity of the works shall be kept free from mud, dust and debris as far as is reasonably practicable. Where contamination of a highway is unavoidable, appropriate signage and regular cleaning will be required. Noise and vibration caused by the works shall be minimised by the best practicable means. It shall be the developer's responsibility to ascertain and ensure compliance with any specific requirements in this regard. Existing public highways shall not be used for the stockpiling and storage of materials and plant. Blasting operations will not normally be permitted where they will have an effect on an existing adopted highway but where the developer has no practicable alternative to the employment of such techniques; the prior approval of the Highway Authority must be obtained through the Private Street Works Engineer. Adherence to any, and all, requirements imposed shall be strictly observed. The developer will remain entirely responsible for ensuring compliance with all statutory requirements in respect of blasting operations. In the event of default on the part of the developer in respect of any of the foregoing subsections, or any damage caused to an existing adopted highway, the developer shall be entirely responsible for the costs of rectifying the results of such default or damage and for meeting the costs of any claims which may result from the default, damage or rectification and/or repair. The developer shall hold public liability insurance cover to a minimum of £5,000,000 in respect of any one third party claim. Where work is to be carried out in a highway maintainable at the public expense, the Private Street Works Engineer may require a copy of the developer's safety policy and insurance certificate. Non-compliance with the Specification If the developer fails to comply with any requirement of this specification, adoption of the works will be prejudiced unless and until the non-compliance is rectified. Where the developer has entered into a Section 38 agreement, non-compliance may result in the default procedures being invoked.7.4.47.4.57.4.67.4.77.4.87.5 7.5.17.5.2Page 10 of 23 V1. 07/108.8.1 8.1.1Street Lighting SpecificationGeneral All materials and workmanship shall be in accordance with this specification and to the satisfaction of the Street Lighting Engineer. The installer of the lighting installation must be NICEIC or ECA registered, be experienced in the installation of public lighting equipment and qualified to provide official completion and test certificates. Where works are carried out to an adopted lighting installation e.g. as part of works under a Section 278 agreement, any new lighting units installed must be brought into use before the disconnection and removal of any existing lighting units. Where this is not practicable the developer shall arrange for some form of temporary lighting to be installed in order to maintain the existing lighting levels. Lighting Columns and Brackets and Traffic Sign Posts for Illuminated Signs Columns and brackets shall: Comply with all relevant parts of BS 5649 and BS EN 40 and the particular requirements of this specification. Only be purchased from manufacturer's who are registered with either BSI Quality Assurance or Lloyds Register Quality Assurance Ltd., for the manufacture, supply and verification of lighting columns and bracket arms under their Quality Management Schemes (QAS5020/304, QSS 5020) to BS EN IS 9002. Certificates of Conformity may be required in support of all columns used.8.1.28.1.38.2 8.2.18.2.2All columns and brackets shall carry a unique identification mark which indicates the name of the manufacturer, year of production and manufacturer's batch number. The identification mark shall be permanent, legible and clearly visible and shall be located within the base compartment of the column. Unless stated in Appendix 2, in residential roads the preferred method of mounting lanterns is post top however where brackets are required they shall be integral with the column (`hockey stick' type). On other road types where a separate bracket is fixed to a column, the assembly of the column shaft and bracket shall incorporate a mechanical locking system in addition to high tensile socket headed securing screws and it shall be possible to fix the bracket in any of 4 x 90º positions relative to the door opening. When correctly fixed, the design of the bracket shall not allow any movement of the bracket either vertically or horizontally with respect to the column. At the point of interconnection, the cross-section of the bracket shall, preferably, equal that of the column shaft. Brackets shall blend with their columns, in material, finish and colour and shall be as short as practicable. Columns and brackets shall be designed by the manufacturer to meet the following parameters. The developer shall insert where appropriate the required site specific information as shown in Appendix 2 to enable the manufacturer to design the columns in accordance with BS EN 40 and shall when requested submit standard column data sheets to the Street Lighting Engineer. Base compartments shall afford easy access to cable terminations and wiring. All electrical equipment mounted in the base compartment shall be securely fixed to a 15mm minimum Page 11 of 23 V1. 07/108.2.38.2.48.2.5thickness backboard which shall be of a non-hygroscopic material of sufficient size to accommodate any control gear and cable termination units. Doors, which shall be sealed to minimum IP33, shall be provided with a substantial and positive, triangular-headed, tamper proof lock. The locking mechanism shall be lubricated with grease immediately following installation and if necessary prior to adoption. Two keys per 10 columns, with a minimum requirement of two keys shall be provided to the Street Lighting Engineer prior to adoption of the road. The earthing terminal provided for steel columns and their doors shall comprise a brass or stainless steel bolt, size M8, complete with nuts and washers. The column shall have a cable entry slot 75mm in width. 8.2.6 Columns and brackets shall be manufactured from Steel or Aluminium as detailed below and as stated in Appendix 2: Circular tubular steel manufactured from cold-formed hollow sections without heat treatment with constant shaft diameter above the base compartment. Continuously tapered steel with either circular or polygonal cross-section (minimum 8 sides). Multisided tapered columns shall be press-folded then submerged arc welded down the joint. Circular hollow tubular aluminium extruded from a solid block of alloy AIMgSio,5 with a satin brushed finish Where road conditions require the use of passive safe lighting columns discussions should be held with the Council Street Lighting Engineer to agree the material to be used. Steel Columns and Brackets 8.2.7 Steel columns and brackets shall be protected against corrosion at the fabricator's works by the following system: Surface preparation: the complete column and/or bracket shall be hot-dip galvanised to comply with the requirements of BS EN ISO 1461, the minimum coating thickness to all faces is to accord with Table 2. Further treatment - after hot-dip galvanising: Internal and external surface of planted root only, to 250mm above ground level to be degreased and treated with `T' wash. 2nd coat: item 150 Pitch Epoxy (2 packs) AS, mdft, 100microns, black [As D.O.T./W.A.G. approvals]8.2.8In general, galvanised steel columns shall be left unpainted; however, where columns require painting the developer shall submit details of the proposed paint system to be used to the Street Lighting Engineer for approval before undertaking any work. Aluminium Columns and Brackets8.2.9The bases of aluminium columns, up to a minimum of 250mm above the proposed ground level, shall be protected by a factory applied system approved by the Council Street Lighting Engineer.Page 12 of 23 V1. 07/108.2.10 Door openings shall be reinforced in accordance with BS EN 40-3-1. Flush fitting doors, which shall be sealed to minimum IP44, shall be provided with two stainless steel triangular-headed locks. The locking mechanism shall be lubricated with grease immediately following installation and if necessary prior to the end of the defects correction period. The earthing terminal provided for aluminium columns and their doors shall comprise a stainless steel bolt, complete with nut and two washers. The copper earthing wire shall be installed between the two washers to ensure that the copper cable does not come in contact with the aluminium Traffic Sign Posts for Illuminated Signs 8.2.11 Posts for illuminated traffic signs shall generally comply with the requirements stated for lighting columns. Posts shall conform to BS873 and BS EN 10210. General 8.2.12 The developer shall excavate and provide concrete ST2 mix complying with BS 5328 1:1997, foundations of sufficient thickness to firmly locate the column in the ground having regard to the ground conditions encountered and the column manufacturer's recommendations. Any concrete foundation shall be finished 150mm below finished surface level. See Standard Detail drawing. 8.2.13 Where ground conditions are poor or where agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer the developer shall install a sleeve foundation comprising a pipe set vertically in the ground into which the column is set. See Standard Detail drawing. 8.2.14 50mm dia. PVC service ducting tubes shall be incorporated in all lighting column foundations terminating at the cable entry slot to enable the supply cable to enter the column. The ducts shall be black for a DNO service or orange for a private supply service. A stranded polypropylene or equivalent rot-proof material draw rope of 5KN breaking load shall be left through the ducting tube to enable the electricity supply cable to be drawn through. 8.2.15 Lanterns and brackets (where required) shall not be attached to the column until 24 hours after the concrete foundations are laid. 8.2.16 Any damage caused during installation to the protective system applied by the column manufacturer shall be made good immediately following column erection or when the lantern is fitted. 8.2.17 Where it is necessary to provide flanged base rather than rooted columns, the developer shall submit details of the concrete foundation and fixing details to the Street Lighting Engineer for approval prior to any work being undertaken on site. 8.2.18 All columns shall be provided with identification numbers as detailed on the approved plan. The number shall comprise a 50mm (75mm on roads subject to a speed limit greater than 40mph) high black numeral on a white square or rectangular background. The number shall be located approximately 3m above ground level (2m on roads with little pedestrian usage) and facing onto the carriageway. 8.2.19 Columns sited on footpaths, or in any area which does not have vehicular access, shall be of the hinged or folding type, as stated in Appendix 2, in order that the column can be lowered into a safe area and maintained at ground level. The developer shall submit to the Street Lighting Engineer for approval details of the type of folding column he proposes to use. Page 13 of 23 V1. 07/108.3 8.3.1Lanterns Lanterns shall be: Manufactured from marine grade aluminium, totally enclosed and shall conform to BS 4533 and BS EN 60598 and have a minimum degree of protection rating of IP 65 to BS EN 60529. Where a separate gear compartment exists, this shall have a degree of protection of at least IP 43. Where heritage or decorative lanterns are proposed the type of material used shall be approved by the Street Lighting Engineer. Fitted with a photo-electric control unit (Photocell or PECU) socket located on the canopy for the installation of a one-piece electronic PECU or be drilled to accept a miniature two-part electronic PECU. Fitted with integral electronic control gear and complete with fuse holder and an appropriately rated cartridge fuse located adjacent to the terminal block which shall be capable of accepting a conductor of 2.5mm2. Installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions with no gap between the lantern and the shoulder of any bracket arm. The lantern shall also be installed at the correct design tilt and horizontal alignment and to ensure that the design `IP' rating is maintained. All fixing bolts shall be mechanically tight. Where a torque setting is recommended for the fixing screws/bolts, a torque wrench shall be used to ensure that the requirements are met. Provided with vandal-resistant (polycarbonate or similar) glazing for those lanterns mounted below 8m. Of the side entry or direct column mounting type wherever possible. However, consideration may be given to the use of post top decorative lanterns in certain installations subject to compliance with the light output restrictions and the prior approval of the Street Lighting Engineer.8.3.2 8.3.3All SON lanterns shall be fitted with anti-cycle ignition control gear. Side entry lanterns shall have a positive locking device so as to prevent the lantern turning on its axis. The lamps, reflectors, refractors and bowl shall be clean and free from obscuring film after installation and the lamp shall be correctly positioned within the lantern. The bowl or any access panel should be seated uniformly on the gasket seal and the toggle catches secured so that the whole of the unit is dust and weatherproof to the appropriate IP rating. The upward wasted light ratio [UWLR] of lanterns shall not exceed the recommended maximum for the environmental zone within which the development is located. Lanterns installed within 3km of the coast shall be fitted with an approved anti-seagull device to prevent seagulls from settling on the lantern. In order to assist with future maintenance, the Council requires that the lanterns used on roads which are covered by this specification shall be chosen from the approved list of lanterns given in Appendix 2.8.3.48.3.58.3.68.3.7Page 14 of 23 V1. 07/108.4 8.4.1Traffic Sign Luminaires Traffic Sign luminaires shall comply with BS EN 60598-1, BS 4533-102.1 and EN 60598-21 and shall provide a light distribution in accordance with BS EN 12899. Control gear shall be suitable for operation on either an electrical supply of 230 Volts, 50Hz ac or 24 Volt dc as required by the Street Lighting Engineer. Gear trays shall be provided with a means of electrical isolation and/or disconnection by means of a cable restrained plug and socket which ensures that the earth terminal is the last to disconnect and the first to reconnect without removal of the gear tray. Control gear for the lamps shall be securely attached to a galvanised steel gear tray, by means of stainless steel nuts, bolts and shake proof washers to ensure sound earth continuity and easy replacement. In twin lamp units, the control gear shall be independent and separate so that in the event of a lamp failing, at least one lamp should continue to function. Type `A' luminaires shall be supplied complete with a miniature one-piece electronic photocell unit as stated in Clause 8.6.1. Traffic sign luminaires shall be obtained from Manufacturers approved by the Street Lighting Engineer. Lamps. Highways which are considered to be traffic routes shall generally be lit using High Pressure Sodium (SON) lamps complying with BS EN 60662. Where these routes pass through commercial areas the Street Lighting Engineer may require the use of "white light" in order to improve facial recognition in the adjacent pedestrian areas. This change of lamp type also reinforces to the motorist the change in character of the highway at that location. Highways which are located in residential areas should be lit using "white light" sources. Preferred "white light" sources are shown in Appendix 2. All lamps shall comply with the appropriate British or European Standard i.e. BS or BS EN and shall be manufactured within the E.U. by a manufacturer approved by the Street Lighting Engineer. All lamps shall be marked to show their suitability for operation at the standard supply voltage provided by the DNO. Lamps used in traffic sign luminaires shall be either PL or LED as stated in Appendix 2. All lamps shall be from an approved manufacturer as stated in Appendix 2. Lamps shall be guaranteed for at least 2 years or 8,000 hours of operation. All SON lamps shall be guaranteed for at least 5 years or 20,000 hours of operation. Where lamps have been in service for a period in excess of 2 years, the developer shall install a replacement lamp prior to adoption. Lamps shall be compatible with the lantern used and must not be fitted in the lantern until the lantern has been correctly fixed to the column/bracket. Page 15 of 23 V1. 07/108.4.28.4.38.4.48.4.58.4.68.4.78.5 8.5.18.5.2 8.5.3 8.5.48.5.58.5.6 8.5.7 8.5.88.5.98.6 8.6.1Control Gear Photo-electric control units (PECU's) shall: Be provided for all lighting units including traffic signs. Comply with BS 5972 and be manufactured to a quality level of ISO9002 or equivalent. Provide class 2 protection against electric shock and shall be either: A one-part unit to fit a NEMA socket or grommet fixing. A two-part unit with a separate detector and controller incorporating a test switch. In either case the detector unit shall be constructed to provide protection to IP67 against the ingress of dust and moisture and shall be secured to the lantern with an effective weatherproof seal of at least IPX4. Be fully electronic with a switching mechanism capable of controlling a reactive lighting load of 10 amps on a 240V 50 Hz supply. Be designed, in so far as is practicable, to fail in the on mode. If a triac or other semiconductor switching device is fitted, a method of ensuring that the load remains switched to the on state must be provided in the event of an overload destroying the device. Have a minimum guaranteed life of 6 years from their date of manufacture and this date shall be indicated on each individual unit to the Street Lighting Engineer's satisfaction. The guarantee shall not be insurance based and shall be based on testing and component mean time between failure rates. The supplier shall, when requested, provide such supportive testing records and/or written evidence, to support such lifeexpectancy claims. Any units failing within the guarantee period shall be replaced, free of charge, by the developer, on a one-to-one basis inclusive of all costs associated with their replacement. Be manufactured by a manufacturer approved by the Street Lighting Engineer, see Appendix 2.8.6.2The switching regime shall be as stated in Appendix 2. All units must be indelibly marked with the switch setting, the manufacturer's identification mark, model number and the date of installation Electronic Ballasts Electronic ballasts shall be: From a manufacturer approved by the Street Lighting Engineer, see Appendix 2, for use in highway electrical equipment and shall be suitable for operation at the standard supply voltage provided by the DNO. Suitable for use with the lamp used. The terminals to which the lamp and supply connections are made shall be clearly marked. Page 16 of 23 V1. 07/108.7 8.7.1 Mounted in the gear tray fitted to the lantern with terminals shrouded so that no live metal parts are exposed. 8.7.2 8.8 8.8.1 8.8.2 8.8.3 All electronic ballasts shall have the ability to be dimmed and remotely monitored. Cut-Outs, Isolators, Fuse Holders and Fuse Links A list of approved manufacturers may be stated in Appendix 2. Cut-outs and fuse holders shall have moulded drip-proof housings. Cut-outs for cable terminations shall: Comply with BS 7654 Have sufficient separate terminals for all live, neutral and earth conductors. They shall be clearly labelled to differentiate circuits and phases. Incorporate a fuse carrier and be designed primarily for use in street lighting columns and suitable for terminations or looped services. Be complete with any necessary extension box, glands or clips to enable the cable to be terminated and the steel wire armouring to be properly fixed and connected. 8.8.4 Cut-outs on private supply cables shall incorporate a lockable double pole isolator. In all other cases a lockable double pole isolator shall be incorporated within or installed immediately after the DNO cut-out. Fuse links shall be cartridge fuses complying with the requirements of BS 88, BS 646 or BS 1361. They shall be of high breaking capacity type and be of a value appropriate to the circuit requirements. Wiring and Earthing Wiring within the electrical unit shall have copper cores and shall be PVC/PVC sheathed 300/500V grade to BS 6004 unless otherwise agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer. Conductor sizes shall be in accordance with the recommendations contained in the ILE Code of Practice for Electrical Safety in Highway Electrical Operations. The connection between the REC cut-out and the double pole isolator shall be made using double insulated `tails' minimum 2.5mm² csa. Circuit protective and equipotential conductors shall comply in all respects with the requirements of BS 7671. A circuit protective conductor shall connect the earth terminal on each luminaire to the main earth terminal block mounted on the column back board. An earth terminal block shall be fixed to the baseboard adjacent to the cut-out and shall be a three-way type capable of accepting a cable size up to 25mm2. A main protective bonding conductor shall have a cross-sectional area not less than half the cross-sectional area required for the earthing conductor of the installation and not less than 6 mm². (BS7671, Section 544.1.1).8.8.58.9 8.9.18.9.28.9.38.9.48.9.58.9.6Page 17 of 23 V1. 07/10Where PME conditions apply the earthing conductor of a street electrical fixture shall have a minimum copper equivalent cross-sectional area not less than that of the supply neutral conductor at that point or not less than 6 mm². (BS7671, Section 559.10.3.4). 8.9.7 All exposed conductive parts, as described in BS 7671, shall be bonded to the main earth terminal using an equipotential bonding conductor of not less than 6 mm² cross sectional area. This shall be increased, if necessary, to conform to the DNO's requirements. Access doors shall be bonded using flexible or tri-rated cable. All earth conductors shall be insulated with green and yellow PVC. All street lighting and other electrically supplied street furniture shall be earthed and bonded in compliance with BS 7430.8.9.8 8.9.98.9.10 A permanent label to BS 951, with the words "Safety Electrical Connection Do Not Remove" shall be permanently fixed in a visible position as stated in BS 7671 Section 51413. 8.10 Electricity Supplies8.10.1 Unless stated in Appendix 2 lighting units shall, wherever possible, have individual phase supplies from the DNO. The supply service at nominal 230V, AC 50Hz, single phase shall terminate at a cut-out which complies with Electricity Supply Industry Standard 12-19. 8.10.2 Where columns are remote from DNO mains and following approval by the Street Lighting Engineer, supplies shall be taken at convenient points (feeder control pillars) and distributed to lighting units by private cables. The DNO will provide a supply within the highway boundary but not to a central reserve or traffic island. Lighting units (either columns or signs) sited in these areas will require a private cable supply which can be readily isolated in the near vicinity. 8.11 Private Underground Cables.8.11.1 When authorised for use by the Street Lighting Engineer, private underground cables shall: Be PVC or XPLE insulated, steel wire armoured, PVC sheathed with stranded plain copper conductors, 600/1000V grade to BS 6346, or split concentric cable as agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer. All conductors shall be of equal cross sectional area and of such size as to carry the designed load and ensure that the voltage drop at the lamp column terminals shall not exceed 3% of the voltage at the supply points. The minimum conductor size for adoption is stated in Appendix 2. Where a 24 volt supply cable is installed to feed bollards or traffic signs the minimum conductor size may be reduced to 2.5mm2 subject to the approval of the Street Lighting Engineer. Unless agreed with the Street Lighting Engineer all cables shall be 3 core (live, neutral and earth). The cable shall be special "Street Lighting Cable" and shall be marked as such and shall have the cores coloured as brown (live), blue (neutral) and yellow/green (earth). Be manufactured by a `BASEC'-registered manufacturer. Loop between lighting units, feeder pillars, illuminated signs etc. with no underground jointing being permitted. Illuminated signs or bollards shall be fed by cables from lighting columns or feeder pillars. Under no circumstances must cable feeding a lighting column be looped through a sign or bollard. Page 18 of 23 V1. 07/108.11.2 No more than three cables shall terminate at a lighting unit and no more than two at an illuminated sign or bollard. 8.11.3 Private 5 core, three-phase sub mains may be laid between feeder pillars. 8.11.4 All cables and cable ducts shall be laid on a bed of sand 100mm deep and covered with a sand layer of equal depth. A yellow, self-coloured PVC or plastic tape, not less than 0.1mm thick and 150mm wide with the wording "STREET LIGHTING CABLE" printed along the full length occupying not less than 75% of its available length and occurring at least at 1m intervals, shall be laid within the backfilling material approximately 250mm vertically above the cable or duct line. 8.11.5 The Street Lighting Engineer shall be advised, at least 7 days in advance, by the developer of any proposed installation of cable or cable ducts in order that inspection of the cable or duct may be undertaken before it is covered. 8.11.6 Cables shall be individually terminated and secured at switches, cut-outs and other electrical apparatus by means of an armour securing clamp or an aluminium compressiontype gland complying with BS 6121 or BS EN 50262 and a gland plate. The armour securing clamp or compression gland and plate assembly shall incorporate at least one non-ferrous earthing terminal. All glands shall be shrouded overall with PVC sleeves and CET system terminations shall be suitably protected. 8.11.7 All cable terminations shall be provided with a non-ferrous label or tag onto which is indelibly marked the cable size and the origin or destination of the cable run. 8.11.8 Earth electrodes shall be provided at the penultimate unit of each private circuit and if necessary at additional points in order to obtain the necessary test results. They shall comply with Engineering Recommendation G12/2 published by the Electricity Association. The earthing system components shall comply w
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Wildlife gardening information pack (PDF 1.6MB new window)

Description: Wildlife Gardening Information Pack Gardens are an important resource for our native wildlife. This information pack has been designed to provide you with the necessary information to garden in an environmentallyfriendly way, which will benefit wildlife. Contents 1. Introduction to Wildlife Gardening 7. Compost 2. Trees, Shrubs and Hedges 8. Feeding the Birds 3. Wildflower Meadows 9. Plants for a Wildlife Garden 4. Ponds and Wet Areas 10. Plants to Avoid 5. Pest Control 11. Wildlife Garden Calendar 6. Homes for Wildlife For more information contact Flintshire's Biodiversity Officer on 01352 703263 or email biodiversity@flintshire.gov.uk Flintshire County Council, County Hall, Mold, Flintshire, CH7 6NF www.flintshire.gov.co.uk/biodiversity Pack written and compiled by Denbighshire County Council, Biodiversity Officer 1. Introduction to Wildlife Gardening Gardens are an increasingly important resource for wildlife in the UK. As our open countryside is farmed intensively and land is developed, the opportunities for wildlife decrease. 84% of British households have a garden that's about 15 million gardens or over 2 million acres. If managed in the right way, gardens can provide ideal habitats for animals and plants and make a significant contribution to wildlife conservation. Recent research has shown that an average sized garden, managed with conservation in mind, can support up to 3000 different species of plants and animals. But closemown lawns and carefully weeded borders offer few opportunities for wildlife. This series of wildlife gardening leaflets aims to provide you with the necessary information to turn your garden into a rich and varied habitat for native wildlife. Wildlife needs food, water and a place to live and breed. These can be provided whatever the size of your garden. You may already have features in your garden that attract wildlife. In creating a wildlife Our wildlife garden at Loggerheads Country Park garden we are trying to recreate some of the habitats that would be found in the wild, though on a smaller scale. Variety is the key The key to a successful wildlife garden is variety. Different plants attract different species and native plants are best. We have a complex, mixed community of wildlife that has evolved together over the last eight to ten thousand years. Many planteating larvae only eat the leaves of one specific type of plant always a native one. The greater the variety of natives you plant, the wider the menu you are providing and the greater variety of wildlife you are likely to attract. Most species will be eaten by more than one animal and tend to support hundreds of different species. In contrast, nonnative plants usually only support single figures (though in their native countries they are too likely to feed hundreds). The colour, fragrance and shape of flowers determine what insects can feed on them. For example only moths with long tongues can reach deep down into flowers with long narrow petal tubes, like evening primrose and honeysuckle, to feed on the nectar. But shorttongued insects feed on short flowers. Pale flowers are more easily seen in poor light, so are attractive species active at dusk. Purple flowers attract butterflies and bees. Bumble bees feed on nectar Fragrance also attracts different kinds of insects. in native flowers like thistles To attract many flying insects, like bees, butterflies and moths, you will need to provide nectarrich flowers. Traditional cottage garden or wild flowers tend to produce more nectar than modern hybrid varieties. Avoid double flowered varieties as these make it difficult for insects to access the nectar. Plants that produce berries and seeds provide food for insects, birds and mammals. With all these different resources in your garden, you can build up a complex foodweb involving a wide range of wildlife. Adding features like Berries are enjoyed by a range of garden ponds, deadwood piles, bird and bat boxes will birds, like this thrush further enhance the habitat for wildlife. More for the environment A wildlife garden not only benefits the local fauna and flora by gardening in a more environmentallyfriendly way you can have a positive impact on the planet by conserving resources and reducing your carbon footprint. Having native plants in your garden benefits the local wildlife because they can utilise the species far better than exotic varieties. But there are more benefits: native plants are used to local conditions such as the amount of rainfall, temperature and soil type. This means they don't need to be watered or fertilised and can tolerate dry spells in summer, so you save water and don't need to use inorganic fertilisers (the production of which emits large quantities of CO 2 ). Growing your own vegetables, salad and fruit reduces your carbon footprint because your food only needs to travel from your garden to your kitchen table rather than across Britain, or even the world. And there is no packaging. Growing your own food is also hugely satisfying and it tastes great! Keeping chickens is another good idea if you have enough space. A water butt can be used to collect rainwater from your gutters, so you don't need to use mains water for your plants. Using rainwater in the garden conserves water levels in our reservoirs, which can become very low in periods of drought, leading to hosepipe bans. Collecting rainwater in a water butt is also a good way of using water that would otherwise be wasted. A garden for everyone A wildlife garden is not a garden left to run wild. It is a garden inspired by nature that both wildlife and people can enjoy. We hope the guidance in our wildlife gardening information pack will help you to transform your garden into a haven for wildlife, providing plenty of enjoyment for people too. 2. Trees, Shrubs and Hedges Many of our commonest garden inhabitants originally lived in woodlands, which have suffered huge declines in extent across the UK. And the loss of traditional management that created glades and dappled edges means that most remaining ancient woodlands are a tangle of impenetrable undergrowth. Garden shrubbery can create a miniwoodland edge, providing a home for a wide variety of wildlife, from foxes, badgers and squirrels in larger gardens to mice, hedgehogs, butterflies and a wide variety of birds. Hedgerows can provide a valuable scaled down version of this woodland edge and are a sheltered, safe corridor through which wildlife can move. A variety of birds will nest and shelter here and a good mix of shrubs will provide food most of the year. Some woodland edge flowers can be grown at the bottom of hedgerows. Native trees and shrubs will provide nectarrich flowers, buds, berries, fruits, seeds and nuts and places to breed, shelter and hibernate. Where: Plant trees and shrubs in a corner with a sunny edge. A shrubby border, meandering in and out of the sun will perfectly resemble the dappled shade of a woodland glade. Use hedgerows as a boundary instead of fences, to screen off an area of the garden such as a vegetable patch or wild area, to provide shelter from the wind or privacy. How: Carefully plant to compress what you would find in a real wood into a mini reserve by developing several layers of plants, one above the other, from trees to wildflowers and include logs and leaf litter. Even in a small garden try to grow at least one tree. If you have space, plant small trees about 3m apart. Large trees will need a lot of space. Plant trees between November and March but not if the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Bare rooted plants are cheaper, but the roots cannot be exposed for too long, so prepare the ground before taking out the whips. Dig a hole deep enough to meet the soil mark on the stem. Break up the soil in the bottom and add some compost or wellrotted manure. Place the plant in the hole and spread out the roots. Replace the soil and firm in with your heel, making sure the tree is upright. Protect it with a guard if necessary and keep the base free of weeds with a mulch. Keep the sapling watered during its first year. To form the second layer, interplant the trees with shrubs. Plant at about 1m spacing and prune them hard to encourage dense, bushy growth. Once the shade begins to develop start adding the wildflower layer. This will mean there will be gaps for the first couple of years as the trees and shrubs develop; mulch these to avoid weeds taking over. Coarsely chopped tree bark is ideal as it will also begin to establish the dead wood and decaying matter vitally important to many small woodland creatures. Create a few log piles around the edges around which wildflowers can grow, to provide an important habitat for minibeasts and fungi. Small mammals, amphibians and reptiles will also use these areas. Once trees and shrubs are strongly established plant some climbers which will grow through the layers. These can quickly take over though so will need controlling. Hedgerows: A variety of species can be used. 70 75% hawthorn provides a thorny, dense base for nesting birds and plentiful blossom and berries. Intersperse with four to six other species that flower and fruit at different times, for example, 15% field maple and 2% each of holly, native wild privet, dogwood, guilder rose and dog rose. If it is a large hedge include a tree every 10 20m. Plant whips between November and March, using bare rooted plants apart from holly which is best pot grown. Dig a trench 30 40cm deep, removing weeds and roots and loosening the soil at the bottom. Add plenty of manure. For a thick hedge, plant shrubs 30 45cm apart, stagger in two rows 30 45cm apart. Plant up to the soil mark on the stem, ensuring the roots are straight and the plants are upright, backfill with soil and firm in with your heel. Water well in the first year and mulch for the first five years. Protect the plants from rabbit or livestock grazing if necessary. For the first prune, cut plants back to 45 60cm above the ground to encourage bushy growth. Replace any dead plants to avoid gaps. After several years keep in shape by cutting in an `A' shape. This will encourage a bushy base, providing plenty of cover. Prune the hedge in the late winter once the berries have gone but before the start of the bird nesting season. Late January is the optimum time. To lessen the impact cut back one third each year in rotation. Once the hedge has become established, plant wildflowers at its base. Tips: Try to plant native species as much as possible. The plant list in this pack contains suitable species to consider. Try to use a combination of plants that will provide food all year round, particularly including some winterberrying varieties for when food is particularly scarce. When sweeping up autumn leaves, allow some to accumulate under the hedge as an organic mulch to provide food for minibeasts and a hibernating area for hedgehogs. Do not cut hedges or shrubs during the bird nesting season. The disturbance will cause the parent birds to desert the nest. Improve an existing hedge with gaps by laying it. This is a skilled task which involves cutting half way through the stems, bending and staking them to create a thicker hedge. Don't cut hedges at the same height and width each year, this will make them too woody. If you don't have enough space for trees, shrubs or a hedge try introducing a climber such as ivy or honeysuckle up a wall or any other vertical structure. Plant at least 30cm away from the bottom of the wall or fence so that the roots aren't in the drought zone created by these structures. For ivy, chop the plant down to 10cm above the ground to stimulate the production of young sideshoots which will allow it to cling to the wall up which it is growing. If growing in a sunny spot, prop a piece of wood or similar against the wall to shade the young plant for the first few months. Make sure you water regularly in the early stages of its growth. Ivy provides excellent cover for wildlife throughout the year and its nectar rich flowers provide valuable food right into December, followed by berries, again appearing once most other fruit has disappeared. If you don't want a climber that clings to the wall then you will need to provide a support. Fix this slightly away from the wall so that the gap created can be used as a shelter. 3. Wildflower Meadows Wildflower meadows are now almost entirely a thing of the past. Only 2% remains of the unimproved pasture in the UK 60 years ago. We are never going to recreate this habitat fully in gardens, but it is possible to conserve many wildflowers and in turn help the myriad creatures that depend on them. Grassland wildlife developed as a sideeffect of traditional hay meadow management. The change in this is what has led to their decline. A wildflower meadow can be re created by following the same regime of mowing and removing `hay'. Where: Although they can never be exactly recreated, wildflower meadows can be grown from scratch, pretty much anywhere. They can be as large or as small as you want. All you need is an area in a sunny spot, a bit of hard work and patience! How: Wildflowers need soil that is very poor in nutrients. If you have an established `traditional' lawn or rich, deep soil then you will need to reduce its fertility first, by regularly mowing closely and removing all the clippings. Or if you're happy for a drastic start remove all the turf and the first 510cm of topsoil. You could also plant greedy crops like potatoes or courgettes to strip away nutrients for a couple of summers. If the lawn is already low in fertility it may be ready straight away. Leave it to grow long in the spring and summer and see what comes up. Check the type of soil you have and select plants that are best suited to these conditions. Once you have reduced lawn fertility, cut very short in late summer / autumn and rake it vigorously to create batches of bare ground before sowing seed. If starting from bare earth, leave for a couple of weeks to allow weeds to germinate. These can then be removed by hand. When you are ready to sow the wildflowers, lightly rake and roll the soil to produce a seed bed. This should be fine, crumbly and firm so rake away all big lumps of earth, remove stones and firm the surface with feet or a roller. Sow seeds in late August (optimum time) or midApril. The seeds should be a combination of lowgrowing, nonaggressive grasses and wildflowers suited to the mowing regime. Make sure seed mixes don't contain rye grass. Sow the seeds very thinly, grass seeds first at a quantity of 2g per square metre. You can mix the seeds with sawdust or silver sand to get a more even spread. Sow the wildflowers in drifts of one or two species to create natural pockets. When all the seed has been sown, run gently over the surface with the back of a rake to very lightly cover the seed with soil then re firm everything with light treading or rolling. Ideal conditions for germination are dull, drizzly weather. If the weather is very dry, then it is worth watering with a very fine spray. Alternatively, you can buy and plant plugs or create your own. Sow seeds into pots or seed trays in late summer. Put the pots outside in a cold corner of the garden and leave them. Once April comes, keep the compost moist and the seeds should start germinating within a Wildflowers at our Loggerheads wildlife month. Not all will in the first year and may garden require two or three years of cold winters. Once the seedlings are big enough, transfer them to 6 or 7.5cm pots and leave them in a sheltered spot, watering them regularly for a whole summer. If they start to produce flower shoots, cut them off to encourage growth in the roots. At the beginning of October plant out these pot grown plants. Remove a plug of soil about the same size as the pot, remove the pot, put the plants in the hole and heel down firmly. If the grass gets any taller than 10cm cut it down to 5cm and firm with your feet to push back any loosened plants. In the first year there will not be any flower growth. Set the mower as high as possible and mow through the summer (probably every six to eight weeks) removing all clippings. Don't let it get below 5cm in length though. You should be able to adopt your permanent mowing regime in the second spring after sowing, but if the grasses still seem too dominant give it another year of the initial cutting regime. Once established, springflowering meadows are cut in July and for the remainder of the summer with the blades raised to 7 10cm and are then left from February until July. Summer meadows are left until late August / September or even October depending on when flowers have set seed. If needed, with this meadow you may want to consider a cut in late March or early April if thistles and vigorous grasses have taken hold over the winter. When you have cut the hay, leave it on the surface for a couple of days to allow it to dry and any creatures to crawl out before you remove it. Tips: If your garden is large enough have different areas under different regimes a closely mown area that is more practical for you, a springflowering meadow and a summer flowering meadow. When planting, group single species together for a natural look and space the plants 20 40cm apart. Year on year, see which plants appear to do best to help decide what others should be added to the meadow. Buy seeds from a native source rather than European stocks. Don't dig up wild plants. Protect the newly sown seeds from birds by stretching lengths of cotton with twists of aluminium foil across the meadow or hang up old CDs or bottles. Leave two or three of the field margins uncut as a refuge for wildlife. Rotate each year. Cut from the inside outwards to allow wildlife to escape to the margins. Meadows are traditionally grazed for a few months after cutting and the small areas of bare ground created from this creates sites for new plants to grow. You could mimic this by creating small bare patches with a rake. If the soil really is too fertile, you could create a cornfield patch instead. Sow a mixture of cornfield annuals such as poppies, cornflowers, corncockles and corn marigolds over bare soil. Some barley and wheat seed will add an authentic touch. After the flowers have set seed, rake over the soil so that there is open ground for them to grow in next year. If grasses become dominant try sowing yellow rattle (Rhianthus minor) which is semi parasitic on grasses. Sow this in August and keep the grass mown until March. Meadow establishment can take two to three years as different plants have different germination requirements. You need a lot of patience before you will achieve a mature meadow! A wildflower area doesn't require any additional watering or feeding, this could upset the natural balance being established and will encourage vigorous grasses. Try to make the drainage as good as possible by digging a soakaway at low points. 4. Ponds and Wet Areas Ponds and wet areas provide resources for a variety of animals, from dragonflies, frogs and toads which use it as a nursery ground, to the birds and mammals which need water to drink and bathe in. A staggering 75% of ponds have been lost from the wider countryside but ponds in gardens can provide some compensation. A large, perfectly situated pond will support a wide variety of wildlife, but a small, shaded pond still has value. Even an old sink or small container can be useful. The following guidelines show how to create the perfect wildlife pond, which can be adapted to suit your situation. Where: In a relatively sunny spot, open to the south and with shelter from the prevailing wind. Away from trees which will overshade it and drop their leaves in autumn. These will turn the water acidic and create an oxygen deficiency. If the garden has a natural hollow or dip, this is the obvious place for a pond. But avoid previously wet areas which benefit wildlife already. Try to avoid places where drainage could be an issue, if heavy rain washes debris and soil into the pond. Close to other wildlife areas such as marsh, meadow or long grass patches. Within range of a hosepipe as ponds can dry up in summer, preferably one attached to a water butt so rainwater can be used instead of tap water. In a safe area where it is not a danger to children. How: A minimum of 4m2 will create a good balanced environment. A gentlysided saucer or kidney shape will allow two zones of different depths. Mark out the shape of your pond with a rope or pegs before you start digging. Plan what you are going to do with the earth removed a rockery is ideal for insects and amphibians using the pond. At least one side should be very shallow and planted up with marsh plants. The other sides should slope gently to provide shallow areas on which much wildlife depends birds will drink and bathe there and amphibians will spawn in shallows. Gentle slopes also provide safe access for wildlife climbing in and out. The more varied the slopes and the longer more convoluted the shoreline, the better. At its deepest point, the pond should be at least 60cm for frogs to hibernate successfully and to prevent them from freezing solid in winter. A depth of 90cm 1m is ideal. Shelves created in the slopes will give further ranges of habitat and will also help to hold containers of marginal plants. Alternatively, planting pockets could be created by edging them with stones. Excavate the pond about 15cm deeper than you want the eventual depth to be at each point, allowing for half a metre around the eventual pond edge to anchor the line to check it is the same level all the way round. After digging out the pond, remove all stones and make the base as smooth as possible, filling any holes with sand or soil. Line with 5cm of sand, newspaper or old carpet to prevent the pond liner from puncturing, including the edges. Lay the liner in the hole but do not stretch it too tight. Make sure it is large enough to overlap the edges and weigh it down with bricks or similar. This edge can either be covered by soil or stones, after the water has been added, and a combination of the two can work very well, offering different habitats. Add a further layer of the protective sand, carpet or newspaper over the liner and finish with a layer of soil to protect it further and prevent it from being broken down by sunlight. Fill the pond letting the water trickle in so the soil is not disturbed. If using tap water allow it to dechlorinate naturally for at least 48 hours before stocking the pond. It is often best to allow your pond to stock itself. Give wildlife time to find it and move in. If you want to speed up the process, introduce a bucket of silt from a neighbour's wildlife pond as long as you know it doesn't contain any invasive species. Do not take plants or spawn from natural ponds or streams. If you do want to introduce plants yourself, use native plants from garden centres or friends' ponds as much as possible. Avoid invasive alien species which will smother your pond and can cause harm to the wider environment. The best time to plant is in April or early May using a mixture of submerged plants, floating plants and emergent plants (rooted in water but foliage extends above the surface). A list of suitable native plants can be found in the separate plant list in this pack. Bogs and marshland: These can be created in much the same way as ponds, just dig a shallower, saucer shaped hole and fill with liner and water as before. They can be a good extension of a pond or as a substitute if safety around small children is an issue. Many pond margin / emergent plants will grow here as long as it stays permanently wet. It is also important to maintain water levels to avoid nettles and docks from taking over. Tips: Do not introduce fish they will eat all the wildlife! Give your pond a season or two to reach a natural balance. Phosphates in the pond may cause an epidemic of blanket weed at first. You can carefully rake this out and compost (leave on the waters edge for a day or so first to allow any creatures to crawl back into the pond) but this is natural and will correct itself over time. In a new pond the shortage of dead plant material slows the development of the wildlife community. Encourage invertebrate activity by chopping an armful of clean straw into short lengths and floating them on the pond surface. The straw will then sink. Do not work in the pond between February and October as wildlife will be active and breeding. The best time is late October after tadpoles have emerged but before adults start to hibernate. Disturbing ponds in midwinter might expose hibernating amphibians to severe cold. Once plants start to become overgrown remove them on a rotational basis, one third each year in late October. This ensures there is enough cover for wildlife during clearance. Allow pondlife to get back into the pond by leaving plants you have removed on the edge for a while before composting. Provide some shelter in the form of log piles, stone piles or long grass nearby the pond into which amphibians or hedgehogs can retreat. Keep the water level topped up, with rainwater if possible, but don't worry if it drops a bit in the summer. This is quite natural and most plants can cope with it. Try to keep a hole open in the winter ice so birds can wash and drink. Rather than smashing the ice, place a tub of hot water on it to melt a hole. 5. Pest Control In a wildlife garden it is really important to avoid using chemicals to control pests and weeds. Often pesticides will kill much more than the target organism you are trying to get rid of. You can inadvertently kill beneficial insects, reduce the food available for birds and generally reduce the quality of the habitat for wildlife. But this doesn't mean that your garden will be overrun with aphids and slugs munching away at your precious plants! There are plenty of other ways to keep pest numbers low without damaging the environment. Encouraging predators Predatory invertebrates are an important link in the food chain in gardens. They prey on many pests, keeping their numbers at lower levels, as well as being food themselves for birds, mammals, frogs and toads. For a healthy garden ecosystem it is important to encourage predators like ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies, by providing them with the conditions they need to thrive. This includes somewhere to shelter, which could be an artificial `insect home', either bought from a garden centre or made by drilling different sized holes partway through a log. A log pile is ideal for many predatory larvae to live. Set aside a wild, unkempt corner of the garden for weeds like nettles to grow, which will attract beneficial insects. Birds, hedgehogs, bats, frogs and toads will eat lots of pests if you provide suitable habitat. Nonchemical methods There are alternatives to chemical pesticides that can be very effective at controlling pests. Slugs can be a real problem, but avoid using slug pellets, as birds and hedgehogs can be killed by eating slug pellets or poisoned slugs. Try these instead: Make a barrier around susceptible plants from scratchy or sharp materials, like crushed egg shells, sand or gravel, which slugs don't like sliding over. Ashes or soot can be used instead as they dry up their slime. They also have an aversion to copper. You will need to maintain the barriers otherwise slugs will find a way through! Sink containers of beer or milk into the soil, with 12cm sticking out above ground. These need to be placed every metre or so. Slugs will crawl up and into the liquid and drown. Slugs come out in the dark, so go out at night with a torch and collect slugs. If you keep chickens, they make an excellent snack! Otherwise you'll have to kill them yourself, either by covering with salt or cutting in half with a pair of old scissors. Some other options for nonchemical pest control include: Handpick larger pests off plants. Pick off infested leaves to stop the spread of pests and diseases, or remove the whole plant if necessary. Don't compost it or leave it near other plants. Choose plant varieties that have been bred for resistance to pests and diseases. Grow plants suited to your soil type, sunshine and moisture levels. Plants will be healthier and less likely to succumb to pests and diseases. Enrich the soil with compost or manure. It helps plants to grow healthily and increases microbe activity in the soil, which is important for a healthy ecosystem. Companion planting The idea of companion planting is to use combinations of plants to reduce pests, or confer some other benefit. Some plants emit odours which repel the pests of crop plants. Others are so attractive to pests that they won't bother with your crop. Companion planting can be used to protect fruit and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. The general principles of companion planting are: Plant a variety of plants. Mix together fruit and vegetables, herbs and ornamental plants. Don't plant large areas with the same type of plant, as it will be a bigger target for pests. You may have to sacrifice some plants to protect others, but with a large variety of plants the damage by pests and diseases will be reduced. As well as reducing pests, companion planting has other benefits. For example, growing beans or peas fixes nitrogen in the soil which can be used by other plants to grow. Companion Planting Guide Plant Asparagus Carrots Chives Dill Garlic Hyssop Leeks Lettuce Marigolds Mint Nasturtium Onion family Parsley Radish Sage Sweetcorn Thyme Tomatoes Tomatoes Beans, peas, leeks, lettuce, turnips, onion family Carrots, tomatoes Cabbage family Roses Cabbage Beans, peas, carrots, turnips Carrots, strawberries Cabbage family, peas, potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce Cabbage Radishes, cabbage, cucumber, beans Carrots, beetroot, tomatoes, lettuce Beans, carrots, asparagus, turnips, tomatoes Spinach Carrots, cabbage family Beans Cabbage family Asparagus Benefits Why Kills nematode that damages tomato roots Reduces rust and thrips Combats fungal disease in carrots, keeps aphids away from tomatoes Attracts beneficial wasps that prey on cabbage pests Keeps aphids away from roses Diverts cabbage white butterfly Improves growth and repels carrot fly Deflects slugs, snails and rabbits Kills nematodes, repels whitefly and aphids, attracts hoverflies, diverts slugs Scent repels cabbage white butterfly Attracts many insects, particularly cabbage white butterflies. Flowers repel aphids and cucumber beetle Strong smell deters pests, especially carrot fly Repels a number of problem insects, improves vigour of tomatoes Attracts leaf miner away from spinach Scents drive away each other's pests Attracts beneficial insects that prey on bean pests Repels cabbage moths Protects against asparagus beetle Remember that diversity is the key. In a healthy garden ecosystem, pests and diseases are kept under control by predators, like beneficial insects, mammals and birds. Avoid using chemical pesticides and adopt alternative pest control measures to keep your plants healthy. 6. Homes for Wildlife Providing dedicated homes for wildlife is a great way of encouraging species into your garden. Birds, bats, insects, reptiles and amphibians can all benefit from shelter provided in gardens. Lack of suitable homes for wildlife has contributed to the decline of some species, so providing artificial homes in your garden is important for conservation. There are lots of different options for providing homes, so try a few and see what species you attract to your garden. The more different things you do, the more species you are likely to see. Nest boxes Nest boxes for birds provide a safe place for eggs to be laid and chicks raised. Different species require different kinds of nest boxes, which mimic the natural places they would chose to build their nests. Where: You should position the nest box 1.5 5m above ground level to protect from predators. Nest boxes should be sited so that they are sheltered from the wind and rain. They should be out of full sunlight, otherwise chicks can overheat and die. How: You can buy readymade nest boxes or make your own following the instructions below. Nest boxes need cleaning out annually to prevent the spread of disease. This should be done in autumn when there is no chance of disturbing breeding birds. Small openfronted nest box Species: robin, wren, pied wagtail, spotted flycatcher, black redstart What you need: any suitable wood, roughly 2cm thick, nails or screws to fix together, small piece of roofing felt (optional) Cut out the pieces of wood to make up the box as follows: Roof Back Side (x2) Floor / Front (x2) 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm These need fixing together using nonferrous screws or nails. There is no need to hinge the roof as the box can be cleaned out through the open front. Attaching a small piece of roofing felt to the roof will improve longevity. Nest box for small holenesting birds Species: blue tit, great tit, coal tit, tree sparrow, pied flycatcher (28mm hole); house sparrow, nuthatch, lesser spotted woodpecker (32mm hole) What you need: any suitable wood, roughly 2cm thick, nails or screws to fix together, hinge (e.g. rubber or leather), small piece of roofing felt (optional) 30cm 18cm 30cm 20cm 11cm To make up, this is almost the same as the openfronted nest box. Cut out the roof, back, sides and floor as above and the front as follows: Front 18cm Hole diameter: 28 or 32 mm15cm Fix the pieces together using nonferrous nails or screws, apart from the roof. Attach the roof to the back piece using a hinge. Again you can cover the roof with a small piece of roofing felt. Bat boxes Bat boxes provide artificial roost sites for bats, which is important as natural roost sites are being lost. The construction is similar to a bird nest box, but the entrance is via a narrow gap at the bottom. Where: Bat boxes can be attached to walls or trees, at least 2m above the ground. The box should be clear of obstructions so that bats can fly in directly. The site should be sheltered and receive sun for several hours a day. How: You can buy a bat box or you can build your own following the design below. Make sure that the wood you use is roughly sawn so that the surface of the box is uneven and bats can crawl over it easily. Use only untreated wood, about 2cm thick. Cut out the pieces as follows: Roof Side (x2) Floor Front Back 5cm Groove 3mm deep, 28mm wide 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm 15cm Fix the pieces together so that there is a 2cm slit at the join between the floor and back. This is the entrance hole for the bats. Bats are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, which means it is an offence to disturb, handle or kill bats without a licence. If you know bats are using your box, you cannot take it down even if bats aren't present at the time. 20cm 9cm 14cm 20cm Insect homes You can provide beneficial insects, like solitary bees, ladybirds and lacewings, with a home in your garden. Bees are important for pollination and ladybirds and lacewings eat pest insects like aphids. Encouraging these insects into your garden by providing homes makes gardening easier too. Insects may use the home to shelter, breed or overwinter. 14cm 30cm Where: Place your insect homes somewhere dry and sheltered. If you want to make a `bug hotel' (see below) you should build it somewhere damp in dappled shade. How: You can buy a range of insect homes from garden centres or online. But you can easily make an insect home from waste materials and things around the house and garden. Drill holes into an old log. Make the holes different sizes to suit different insects. Tie together a bundle of hollow garden canes. As in the picture, you could combine the log and the canes and enclose in a wooden case to give even more protection. If you are feeling adventurous, why not make a `bug hotel' which will attract even more minibeasts? Use your imagination to build a stack of different materials, such as bricks, logs, hollow garden canes, planks of wood, stones, pine cones, corrugated card, plant pots, pipes, straw, dry leaves, moss and roof tiles. Reuse things you have lying around the house and garden. Make sure the bug hotel is stable and on flat ground. You can plant the roof with drought tolerant plants. Log and stone piles Leaving a loose pile of logs or branches provides habitat for all kinds of minibeasts including centipedes and beetles that eat slugs! Young frogs and newts may spend the winter within the log pile, as well as hibernating toads. Log piles are ideal for fungi, which break down the wood over time. Stone piles are used by invertebrates, as well as amphibians and reptiles. Toads may shelter in damp crevices and reptiles may bask on the stones in the sun. Both log and stone piles provide food for the birds and mammals which visit your garden. Where: Make a log or stone pile in a quiet corner of your garden, so wildlife won't be disturbed. Log piles are best somewhere shady and damp, like under trees or bushes. Stone piles can be placed somewhere shady or sunny. They will attract different species depending on their position. How: Making a log or stone pile is simple. Just loosely pile logs/branches or stones and wait for wildlife to start using them. 7. Compost Adding compost to your soil or using it as a medium for growing seeds and plants is very useful. It provides important nutrients for your garden, helping plants to grow strong and healthy. But do you know where your compost comes from and what it contains? Some commercial compost contains peat which is cut from lowland peat bogs, causing the damage and destruction of wildlife habitats as well as releasing CO 2 which can contribute to climate change. This guide will show you how to make your own compost and help you to buy environmentallyfriendly peat free compost. Making your own compost Making your own compost has lots of benefits it's free, it reduces the amount of household waste going to landfill and it doesn't require any peat, so precious peat bogs are protected. Where: You can make compost in a compost bin or in a pile covered with a polythene sheet. Site your bin or compost heap in a sunny or semi shaded position where you can access it easily. In a sunny position the compost will develop faster. It should be away from any watercourses or ponds as runoff from the compost can pollute the water. Your bin or compost heap should be placed directly on bare ground, rather than on concrete or paving. This is so that worms and other creatures can get in to break down the waste and turn it into compost. A typical compost bin How: To make good compost you need to use a mixture of `green' and `brown' items, otherwise your compost won't develop properly. `Green' items include: grass cuttings, kitchen waste (fruit and vegetable peelings, tea bags, egg shells etc), old flowers, annual weeds before they have gone to seed and coffee grounds. `Brown' items include: cardboard, egg boxes, fallen leaves, twigs/branches, scrunched up paper and sawdust. Some things should never be added to your compost: dairy products, meat, cooked vegetables, dog or cat waste, diseased plants and perennial weeds. You'll need to get the right mix of `green' and `brown' items otherwise your compost will be too wet or too dry. Young nettles or grass cuttings should be added to kick start the composting process. Turn your compost with a fork every few months to speed up the process by adding more air. Be careful when you do this because the heat of the compost can attract animals such as hedgehogs and slow worms. Depending on conditions your compost will be ready to The finished product use in any time between six months and two years. You'll know it is ready when it is brown, crumbly and sweetsmelling. Homemade compost is very rich in nutrients and best used as a soil conditioner. If you want to use your compost for potting, you will need to mix it with other materials like soil or sharp sand. Buying peat free compost Traditionally the composts that are available to buy contain peat. Peat comes from lowland peat bogs, which support rare wildlife communities. Once peat is removed from the bogs for compost, the habitat is severely damaged. Peat takes thousands of years to form so the habitat cannot recover quickly. In addition peat bogs act as huge carbon stores: as peat is formed it locks away the carbon dioxide that is absorbed by plants as they grow. But when the peat is extracted CO 2 is released back into the atmosphere, contributing to climate change. Peat free compost performs just as well as or even better than compost containing peat. Instead of peat it uses recycled materials such as coir (from Peat bog habitat coconut husks), garden waste collected by the local authority and waste bark from the timber industry. And because peat free compost contains recycled material, it reduces the amount of waste going to landfill. Peat free compost is widely available at garden centres, DIY stores and online. Multipurpose compost and grow bags are available, as well as specialist composts for growing particular types of plants. Check the ingredients carefully to make sure it is 100% peat free as packaging can be misleading. You can also buy seedlings and plants grown in peat free compost. Leaf mould Leaf mould is easy to make and is useful around the garden. It can be used as a soil improver, mulch and lawn treatment. It's good to add some dried fallen leaves to compost as `brown' material, but too many would make it too dry. Making leaf mould is also a more environmentally friendly way of getting rid of fallen leaves in autumn, compared with burning. Where: In a shady corner of your garden. How: Collect up fallen leaves in autumn and place into a black bin bag. Use a fork to make holes in the bag so air can circulate and, when full, sprinkle in some water, shake and tie up. Leave the bag somewhere shady for a year and you'll be able to use the leaf mould as a mulch. If you wait another year the leaf mould is suitable as a soil conditioner. 8. Feeding the Birds Feeding the birds in your garden can be very rewarding. Putting out a variety of different foods can attract a wide range of species, which you have the opportunity to see up close. The food you provide can be valuable for birds, especially over the winter when food is scarce, but at other times of year too to supplement their natural diet. Food can be provided on a bird table, in hanging feeders or on the ground. It is also import to provide a fresh, clean supply of water for birds. Where: You can put hanging feeders on trees, brackets attached to a wall or special posts designed to hold bird feeders. A bird table can be placed anywhere, but it is a good idea to place is away from the house as more birds are likely to visit. If you are providing food on the ground, keep it away from areas of cover where cats can hide. Put your feeders or bird table somewhere they can be easily seen from inside the house, giving you a better opportunity of seeing what birds visit your garden. How: Feed peanuts in a wire mesh feeder. They are a great source of fat for energy in the winter. Never put out whole peanuts on a bird table as birds can choke on them. Sunflowers seeds and seed mixes will attract a range of species. Black nyjer seeds are good for attracting siskin and greenfinch. Remove fat balls from any mesh containers as birds can get their feet stuck in the mesh. Make your own by mixing lard with bird seed, grated cheese, raisins, peanuts or other suitable bird foods. You can fill an empty coconut shell or yogurt pot with the mixture. Refrigerate for about an hour before hanging outside. Mealworms can be bought live or dried and are ideal for insectivorous birds. Lots of food scraps are ideal for feeding to birds, but avoid putting out lots of bread as it has low nutritional value. Bacon rind, grated cheese, cake or biscuit crumbs and overripe fruit (e.g. apples) are good leftovers for birds. Never feed mouldy food to birds as it could cause respiratory infections. Leaving seed heads on plants in your garden will provide another source of seeds for birds in late summer and autumn. The higher number of insects in your wildlife garden will benefit birds too. Tips: If you have problems with grey squirrels eating your bird food, try using squirrelproof feeders. These allow small birds to access the food but keep squirrels off. Use a bird bath or place a bowl of clean water on your bird table. Change the water regularly to prevent spread of disease. In winter be careful that it doesn't freeze over. Clean out bird feeders and remove uneaten food regularly to prevent diseases spreading. Birds come to rely on a food source, especially in winter. So you'll need to keep up feeding once you start. Plants for a Wildlife GardenTrees and Woodland PlantsMedium trees and large shrubs Alder (Alnus glutinosa) Aspen poplar (Populus tremula) Bird cherry (Prunus padus) Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) Crab apple (Malus sylvestris) Elder (Sambucas nigra) Field maple (Acer campestre) Large trees Ash (Fraxinus excelsior) Balsam poplar (Populus balsamifera) Beech (Fagus sylvatica) Common oak (Quercus robur /Q. petraea) Elm (Ulmus procera) Hedging plants Alder buckthorn (Frangula alnus) Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) Crab apple (Malus sylvestris) Dog rose (Rosa canina agg.) Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) Elder (Sambucus nigra) Flowers for under hedgerows Betony (Stachys officinalis) Birds foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) Common dog violet (Viola riviniana) Cuckoo pint / lords and ladies (Arum maculatum) Garlic mustard / Jack-by-the-hedge (Alliaria petiolata) Greater stichwort (Stellaria holostea) Woodland edge plants Bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) Bugle (Ajuga reptans) Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) Greater celandine (Chelidonium majus) Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) Lords and ladies (Arum maculatum) Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Stinking hellebore (Helleborus foetidus) Climbing plants Black byrony (Tamus communis) Climbing brambles (Rubus fruticosus) Dog rose (Rosa canina agg.) Field rose (Rosa arvensis) Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) Ivy (Hedera helix) Quince (Cydonia oblonga) Wild clematis / old man's beard (Clematis vitalba) Hazel (Corylus avellana) Holly (Ilex aquifolium) Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) Silver birch (Betula pendula) Spindle (Euonymus europaeus) Yew (Taxus baccata)Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) Small leaved lime (Tilia cordata) White willow (Salix alba) Wild cherry (Prunus avium)Field rose (Rosa arvensis) Goat willow (Salix caprea) Guelder rose (Viburnum opulus) Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) Hazel (Corylus avellana) Holly (Ilex aquifolium)Hedge woundwort (Stachys sylvatica) Lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria) Primrose (Primula vulgaris) Red campion (Silene dioica) Self-heal (Prunella vulgaris) Sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata)Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) Wild daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) Wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) Yellow archangel (Lamium galeobdolon)A bee feeding on the nectar of apple blossomAquatic PlantsPond Plants Submerged / oxygenators Common water starwort (Callitriche stagnalis) Rigid hornwort (Ceratophylum demersum) Water crowfoot (Ranunculus aquaticus) Whorled water-milfoil (Myriophyllum verticillatum) Floating Broad-leaved pondweed (Potamogeton natans)* Fringed water lily (Nymphoides peltata) Ivy-leaved duckweed (Lemna trisulca) White water lily (Nymphaea alba)* Emergent Amphibious bistort (Persicaria amphibia) Branched burr-reed (Sparganium erectum)* Mare's tail (Hippuris vulgaris)* Water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpiodes) Marginal Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia) Flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus) Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) Water mint (Mentha aquatica) Marsh and bog plants Bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) Water cress (Nasturtium officinale)* Sedges (Carex spp.)* Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) * Meadow buttercup (Ranunculus acris) Water plantain (Alisma plantago aquatica) * Only really suitable for large ponds as can become invasive Curled pondweed (Potamogeton crispus) Spiked water-millfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum) Water violet (Hottonia palustris) Willow moss (Fontinalis antipyretica)Floating sweet grass (Glyceria fluitans)* Frogbit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae) Water crowfoot (Ranunculus aquatilis) Yellow water lily (Nymphaea lutea)*Bog bean (Menyanthes trifoliata)* Common reed (Phragmites australis)* Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) Water mint (Mentha aquatica)*Brooklime (Veronica beccabunga) Lesser spearwort (Ranunculus flammula) Water forget-me-not (Myositis scorioides) Water plantain (Alisma plantago-aquatica)*Rushes (Juncus spp.)* Water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides) Marsh St John's wort (Hypericum elodes) Lady's smock (Cardamine pratense) Greater birds foot trefoil (Lotus pedunculatus) Sneezewort (Achillea ptarmica)Marsh marigolds show a flash of early colour and provide shelter for frogsThe pinky-white flowers of bogbean emerge above the water to provide nectar to insectsYellow flag iris is useful to dragonflies and damselfliesWildflower Meadows and BordersSpring flowering meadow (mow from July onwards) Common birds foot trefoil (Lotus cornuculatus) Cowslip (Primula veris) Daisy (Bellis perennis) Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum) Lady's smock (Cardamine pratensis) Meadow buttercup (Ranunculus acris) Primrose (Primula vulgaris) Red clover (Trifolium pratense) Ribwort plantain (Plantago lanceolata) Snake's head fritillary (Fritillaria meleagris) White campion (Silene alba) Yellow rattle (Rhinanthus minor)Summer flowering meadow (mow `til June and again late September) Common knapweed (Centaurea nigra) Meadow cranesbill (Geranium pratense) Common poppy (Papaver rhoeas) Ox-eye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare) Devil's bit scabious (Succisa prat
Url: /en/PDFFiles/Countryside--Coast/Biodiversity/Wildlife-gardening-information-pack.pdf

Food premises approval

Description: If you operate certain food premises you may need to be approved by your local authority
Url: /en/Business/Licences-and-permits/Food-premises-approval.aspx

HMO FFC Application Form

Description: HMO FFC Application Form
Url: /en/PDFFiles/Licensing/HMO-FFC-Application-Form.pdf

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